These planes are very difficult to find in good condition. Here are some before photos. I realize this isn't actually a question, but i would appreciate some comments on this idea Lastly, how can I determine the age of the plane? Just stripped down a Stanley 6C and 7C and sprayed with Rustoleum Pro. A very handy user tool. The top is more a flattened arch-shape. The handle, which is maple or beech with a clear finish on it, is shaped like a dumbbell but with sausage-shaped ends that are gripped in each hand. The trammels are untouched with a pleasing patina.
Actually, the planes have a major design problem - they choke very easily with the mouth as Stanley provided, and in order for them to work well, the mouth had to be filed open somewhat; the face of the iron, along its edges, butts right against the steel see the version of this plane for an image of the other side of the plane, where there is a very slight relief to the steel ahead of the iron, but only for a too short distance. The iron rests upon two sloping projections that arise from the main casting. These should be redone properly with oil stones before you use them. The earlier models will have a beaded knob and the patent date cast into the right side of the plane. This was offered for the finest scraping, where wood on wood is thought to be preferable by some. The box is intact but is not nearly as nice as the plane. Those are the only real differences.
Otherwise it is crisp, with a pleasing light patina. The handle and head show tool box rash. These are hybrid planes, where wooden plane meets metal plane in a short-lived union. This plane can be used with the blade in two position one for normal use where you cut rabbets and bullnose position. To achieve a reasonable volume of poured-metal castings using the greensand method, some type of repeatable mold pattern must be used. The handle and knob are maple, and on the earliest examples they have a clear finish on them.
At the same time the shoe was added, a round depth gauge rod was made part of the shoe clamping assembly. It would rate higher but some fool has hit the top of the sweetheart maked iron and the cap iron with a wire wheel, giving it a lightly frosted look. This section is adjustable, forward and backward, to regulate its mouth. The nickel is better than 90%. This plane has the heavier casting that appeared around this time.
There are two lugs cast into the top section under which the lever cap fits. Having difficulties reading project plans? It is in the original box, which is in decent condition. The cutter has no cap iron, and is held in place by a thumb screw activated lever cap. This protects the plane from further rust and brightens the finish. The planes do not use a cammed lever cap like those on the common bench planes. Good old Stanley, coming up with a new model number to designate a plane that was born after the redesign of the. They don't have pronounced horns like those used on the bench planes.
I am not sure when the are from but probably the 1940s or 50s. The plane has two beds for the cutter - one positioned for normal work, and the other for bullnose work. Red was the color used for the Bed Rock line of bench planes. Why it was done is unknown. The corners of the sole have been relieved, a practice that some of the old timers embraced. The depth stop is held in place by two small nickel plated thumb screws, but the last production American ones use slotted screws as do the current English manufactured models. At least that's how Stanley described the change.
The plane feels quite heavy for a 3. My observations tell me that any combination of the following features is possible for these planes. The right side is noticably thinner than the left side. These two cutters are ground to a straight edge, so that they operate just like a paring chisel. The nickel plating has some light freckling and there is some light staining on the blade, which is why I added the minus.
The crack is easy to spot by examining the plane from its backside, the flat side of the plane. This nut, originally brass and slotted, was later made as a nickel plated thumb screw. Aluminum or a similar alloy replaced traditional wood patterns, allowing for the faster machine-molding techniques required in the 20th century. There is a small dent in the edge of the head where it was dropped, which kept it from getting an extra plus on the grading. Sometimes wooden soles are screwed to the main casting.
The head has a flat on one side to be flush against the wall. Because of the way the blade is clamped in place, and because the clamping mechanism is unencumbered to either side, the tool is capable of holding blades of any width, making it useful for scraping into weird locations that aren't accessible by the other scrapers. It has a full original iron and will make a great user for a gift price. Many of the rods are bent right where the threads start so check this area by unscrewing the rod - you'll notice whether it's bent as you unscrew it. Many of the totes are also damaged, more often than not cracked, from use. The pealing Japanning and minute rust under the japanning just didn't cut it with me.