Driving an American truck to South America where parts are not available could be a risky business. This is the final product. I think an inline filter is a good idea, but does it need to be a motor oil filter? It was so tight that I had to take out the washer fluid reservoir and set it on top the engine so I could get my hands in there and work it on. Now that you know which is the outlet, install the hose connector adapter that came with the auxiliary oil cooler kit to the outlet neck on the radiator. However, during my research I did come across some information that pointed to two existing bolts plugs on the cvt that can possibly be used to run the extra cooling lines to an external cooler instead of using the 'up-dated' cooling block. Some kits are designed for quick install and removal, which is ideal for high performance or racing applications where the cooler might have to be swapped frequently. Of course you need to know the diameter of the hoses.
A Dremel tool makes quick work of this. It used to sweat fluid like that for years. Stacked Plate This is the most compact and durable type of fluid cooler. I am ordering mine today. Then you can clamp the hose with double clamps to that and be sure. I actually went ahead and ordered the stuff the other day.
Basically the difference is in the surface area the coolers provide — a plate and fin cooler will have more cooling capacity than a similarly sized tube and fin design and the stacked plate style will provide even more; that means the more efficient the cooler, the smaller it can be. I believe I can make this work without brackets. Place a small rubber hose over the exposed fitting and start the engine. I will present it in the next on March 14th. Whichever transmission cooler design you choose, rest assured that it will extend the life of your transmission by preventing heat-related failures and improving shifting performance.
The o-ring needs to be on the side of the fitting that threads into the cooler, not on the hose side as shown in the picture. Insert the plastic ties at each corner that go through the foams. But at the end if the day it's done, no leaks, and I lost very little fluid at all. The cooler thats built into your rad is designed to cool the transmission with the weight of just the truck by itself. Ok back to question time for me again. Slip the hose over the adapter fitting and secure with a hose clamp.
I had 150k miles on the original radiator. Take pain now to insure everything is well secured and out of the way of potential harm. These coolers are not a pass through cooler. The use of a transmission cooler can prevent your transmission from ever getting up into the danger zone of over 200 degrees. Do you use any thread sealant on the threads from the inlet ports like the threads in the thermostat housing or are those tapered threaded fittings self sealing? I will likely fabricate an additional guard to provide a little added insurance against a rock being in the wrong place at the wrong time.
Good to know that a bigger tranny cooler helped. The other half of the mount is still a heavy-gauge steel but it is designed to provide a clamping effect when it bends slightly to conform to the frame and inside mount as the mounting nuts and bolts are given those final turns. . The compression fitting idea seems like a great idea and I just might convert to that one day. I than used a tubing cutter and cut after the first visable bend after coming out of the radiator. If I find in a couple days that the hoses look to be slipping I will probably try to flarre the tubes, but for right now it seems ok.
At the top of the grade the tranny was barely starting to whine but still a huge improvement over no external cooler. I just checked one of my lines today and and added a second clamp to one of the lines because there was fluid on the hose. Is 10,000 enough or not, and of course 20,000 is better but what is a good number. This is a good thing. Usually we see the problem in the with the series automatic transmissions in the heavy duty trucks that are doing heavy commercial work. The solution we came up with was a Derale remote cooler with a fan.
With dreams of boost, the bumper seemed the best option. When I install my cooler, I will bye pass the rad as the proper size cooler will more than do the job. You need a flare wrench set to get it off, or you have to cut the tubes tubing cutter may come in handy then break off with a plier and use a socket. It's going on my 87 T type with the 200-4R trans. If you are going to the trouble of adding a bigger thicker aftermarket cooler, making holes and brackets, I don't see the point of keeping the stock one. I have to find the screenshots on my other device for standard temps can't remember them right now. Also where can I buy the fittings? But it will have a higher than stock stall converter.
This is the final product. This includes off-road vehicles that are moving slow on a trail, hot rods at big events where there is a lot of traffic, tow vehicles carrying a heavy load up a steep grade and commercial delivery vehicles that spend much of their time parked and idling. Do not use a wrench to tighten the thermostat switch, it should only be firmly hand-tightened. I lost some coolant fluid which I refilled with tap water in the reservoir or distilled water if your tap water is too hard with minerals. The general rule of thumb is that for each 20 to 25 degree increase in temperature the transmission's life expectancy is cut in half. Heat shrink tubing is inexpensive, better, and quicker than wrapping connections and splices with electrical tape. I'm hoping the larger cooler will prevent any whining.